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Message started by Pamela on Apr 5th, 2005 at 6:22am

Title: More About Paint
Post by Pamela on Apr 5th, 2005 at 6:22am
Thanks for your reply Don...also for your patience.  I am ready to pull my hair out, I can't believe how many colors don't seem to be available any longer.  I could use some help please...I want to set up a new palette using the colors listed on your wheel.

Don: I'm making an addition here on 1-6-6)
I like Handprints site, I was just there and marval at our simularities.
This Quote I just read there. It's about the removel of the most important transparent yellows we have as artists. That's my opinion, not theirs.
 
http://www.handprint.com/HP/WCL/pigmt1d.html#benzimidazolone
"Metal Complex. A small group of about a dozen azo pigments of marginal industrial significance, and (it seems) with an uncertain future in the world of artists' pigments (production of PG10 and PO65 has been recently discontinued). All combine a symmetrical pair of carbon (organic) compounds with a metal atom (usually nickel or copper). Included in this group are the azomethine metal complexes. Colors range from green (PG8) to green gold (PG10, PY117, PY129), yellow (PY150, PY153, PY177, PY179), orange (PO59, PO65), and red (PR257, PR271). Most shades are rather dull or dark in masstone, but brighten significantly in tints."

Don: Nickel complex, making PG10F (discontinued) Indian Yellow Green side and PY153 a warm light brown its mass tone. Indian Yellow is the primary transparent compound. That makes Indian Yellow the most important primary yellow color pigment. Not that cadmium opaque yellow and translucient Benzimidazolone Yellow are not handy. Buy your supply while they are still availble, 1-6-5  
<End of Don>

In the Mussini company...the only Opaque Green I could find is the Cobalt Green Opaque, it doesn't mention if it is Light or not.

I didn't see a Thalo Green in this brand available according to my supplier's list.
Is the Burnt Umber and Sienna called Natural?

There is nothing listed as Yellow Raw Ochre...there is a Light Ochre on the Mussini list???  I also couldn't find Permanent Green Lt. or Cad. Yellow Lemon in the Mussini paints.

In the Grumbacher line I found a Thalo Violet, is that the same as Thalo Purple?
Is this the cool purple?  They still make the Diox. Purple.  Is the Cad. Yellow colors all barium colors?  The Earth Green is Earth Green Hue...is that what I want...is there another brand? :o

In Old Holland...what is the difference in Gamboge and Cobalt (Aureolin) Yellow Lake?
Don: Gamboge natural is not permanent and not a pure yellow. Aureolin is translucent.

In the Rembrant I found Quinacridone Rose, not Rembrant Rose and I found Scarlet...none of them mention Scarlet Crimson.  I found a Thalo Blue-Green, but the color sample is not even close to turquoise.  They have several turquoises that look turquoise.  They only have one vermillion and it doesn't say which vermillion it is...doesn't say Chinese.  There is no longer a Chromium Oxide at all? :o

Windsor Newton no longer has a Cad. Red Light?  :-[

I would appreciate your help in this...I need to get my paint order in as soon as possible. :D  

Pamela

Title: Re: More About Paint
Post by Admin on Apr 7th, 2005 at 1:20am
What you want is an opaque light to medium green on the cool side and on the warm side. It just saves time. Both of the colors can be made with the Thalo greens.

Here is my oil palette with colors laid out so you can compare where they are on the color wheel.
http://www.realcolorwheel.com/myoilpalettemap.htm
There you will find these lighter greens.
http://www.realcolorwheel.com/oilpalette25permgreenlt.htm
http://www.realcolorwheel.com/oilpalette23greenopq.htm

Here is the Thalo green Y/s, if your supplier doesn't have it, they should. Switch suppliers.
http://www.realcolorwheel.com/oilpalette24thalogreen.htm

Here is my yellow oxide. Any yellow oxide or yellow ocher will do, they are all natural except for the mars colors, their Ok too.
http://www.realcolorwheel.com/oilpalette14yellowoxide.htm

Here is thalo Purple, it's closer to blue then the Violet.
It's dual-toned in that the lighter colors differ when mixed with white or medium.o/
http://www.realcolorwheel.com/palette18diopurple.htm

Most Cadmium colors have barium fillers.
Translucent Green earth is a color you can do without. It's too specialized. Unless you have a really big palette. Even with my biggest palette I don't find much use for it.
The opaque chromium green oxide isn't of much use either.

Burnt umber..
Mussini Burnt Umber, Translucent/opaque.
It is dense, permanent and opaque/translucent.
Although this color is very important, I have noticed not only does it have a high absorption rate of oil, it also attracts mold.
A suitable replacement can be made with Burnt Sienna and Ultramarine Blue.
Natural means from the earth, it's what you want.
http://www.realcolorwheel.com/oilpalette17btumber.htm

>In Old Holland...what is the difference in Gamboge and Cobalt >(Aureolin) Yellow Lake?

Cobalt yellow is only really useful in w/c's as it is non-staining, not that I mind staining colors. Gamboge is better but best in w/c, Indian yellow is best for oil. (added 9-29-6) .. Today there are manufactures making good Indian yellows in watercolors, soon they all will.

Rembrandt rose, PV19 is a great color, it is a scarlet crimson.
http://www.realcolorwheel.com/oilpalette11remrose.htm
Quin rose is probably very close. PV19 is not strong enough to be the magenta though, its a warm magenta that is not permanent. Its not the same strength as the Pathalocyanine green which you can mix to get the middle black. You need the PR122 magenta.

This is one of the transparent turquoises,
CCCY, Rembrandt Blue Green, Transparent.
It is a permanent synthetic. As long as it's transparent (cobalt is not) many brands will do. It's a mix of Thalo blue and Thalo green.
I use this color on my palette when I am painting water.
http://www.realcolorwheel.com/oilpalette22turq.htm
Chinese Vermilion is translucent, vermilion genuine is opaque.

You must have a cad red lit, a Medium red you could be mixed with a little magenta, medium red gets chalkie when you try to lighten it if you use an opaque yellow. Many brands have it, Grumbacher will do fine.

Phew.. that was a long post!! Nice!

Title: Re: More About Paint
Post by Admin on Apr 7th, 2005 at 1:51am
I should answer your email post while I'm at it:)
>
> Late Night Notes!
>  
> Hello Don,
>  
> I am planning on using the Mussini Gamboge.  The Cobalt Yellow was the substitute color recommended on the link I sent you yesterday.  I understand about it not being transparent. Is the Mussini Gamboge the geniune?
>

If it's genuine it is transparent, I don't use it much, it's just too half-way. Indian Yellow is stronger.
These are 3 color painting using gamboge.
Here is that colors web sites.
http://www.realcolorwheel.com/paintingknife.htm
http://www.realcolorwheel.com/jacaranda5.htm
http://www.realcolorwheel.com/oilpalette5gamboge.htm
http://www.realcolorwheel.com/rcwgamboge.htm
Here is the whole palette so you can see color relations.
http://www.realcolorwheel.com/myoilpalettemap.htm





>It sounds like a wonderful color.  I am trying to learn more about the colors...there is so much information on your page that I have never been introduced to.
>

Title: Re: More About Paint
Post by Admin on Apr 7th, 2005 at 8:17pm
>Greetings Don:
>
>Looks like you may have to go into the manufacturing business.  With emphasis on the paint.  You can call it "The Jusko Acrylics" and "The Jusko Oils".  This way we will be sure to have to have the correct color palette.  I have spent so much money unnecessarily on colors I don't need.  Don't forget the brushes!
>
>Chat later,
>Angie

Hi Angie,
I don't know what to do. I found the brushes I think are important, the chisel brushes by Haydn in Austraila.
If I make paints, I'll start with the 3 primaries.
The thing is, I want to paint.
Starting a business would take all my time. I need a working partner..

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