Respect the media, that's the key. Acrylics have enough good points to win the paint wars. No yellowing (all oil yellows), fast to paint with (pastels are faster and the revival of casein fix makes them smear proof permanent, grit ground to paint on board puts them in a very permeant class). Water based makes them cheaper. I can't tell the difference from an oil and acrylic if I didn't write it on the back.

In water colors you always make one edge soft, There is also something to be said for the"big blur", it happens out of the paintings "attention area". both areas require smooth graduations. Water colors are easier because if you start with a wet paper (wait until there is no shine on the paper, just an even sheen).

Don't depend on one stroke coverage, jump around and work on the dry areas. A thinner second layer often will give the appearance of a blurred edge. I just looked at a dozen of my acrylics and I can't say there are many strokes that are not full strokes even if they are thinned down strokes.

I don't use any retarder and the medium I use is Liquitex "water clear" Medium to hold my drawing strokes in place after I have made my charcoal drawing. It was made 2003 and it's called, Blending and Painting Medium. It extends drying time a little and makes blending edges a lot easier. It's clear and fluid like water. When the drawing has been lined and dry I wash the whole painting down with water. Sometimes I work on paintings for days or weeks, wash the painting often. I'm amazed at how much dirt accumulates. And if there are clumps of dried paint I won't hesitate to use a 600 grit wet dry sandpaper. My final painting in acrylics is smooth, usually my oil paintings are smooth too.

I know it's easier to blend with oils, poppy oil in the medium will keep it open even longer.
Keeping your acrylic washes thin will let you build up the color more slowly. An acrylic Retarder will also extend the working time. I prefer a hair drier and two coats of jar white if I want to change something. Acrylic painting is much easier when you coat the gesso with a layer of white paint, it's like oiling down the canvas before starting an oil painting.

It's jacaranda season here and I won't think about using oils. I paint what I see and it doesn't take changing anything after my original drawing. Setting the mood of the painting with the sky is the smoothest blend of paint I usually have to make. Ten minutes later it's dry and insoluble, except for using alcohol which will break down acrylics and oils. The smoothest blend I ever made was for the Lahaina Church, I explain the technique here.
http://www.wikihow.com/Paint-a-Sky-Using-Acrylics
This is last years jacaranda painting.
http://www.realcolorwheel.com/jacaranda2012.htm
Her is a list of my jacaranda paintings.
http://www.realcolorwheel.com/jacaranda2011acr.htm

PS, I made a new acrylic color paint from dry Opera pigment, I't another perfect magenta but not as dark as PR122. This year I want to do a 22x15 with just my primary pigments including the two new ones, Tartazine yellow, Opera magenta and the already perfect, Thalo blue.

A finish like water based polyurathane evens out the final look of the painting. When you paint with acrylics your painting with different consistancies. the washes are flat, thicker paint has a gloss or sometimes just a sheen. If you don't want a high gloss (I do) use a matt finish. They look great too. The finish protects the acrylic with a harder surface. Both of them are uneffected by turpentine, or soap and water, alcohol will desolve either.

It won't wash off after it's dry but without a final finish it is more susceptible to scratches.

I use a 2H pencil with thin lead and a kneaded eraser, just like with W/C's. Charcoal works with oil.
Two coats of acrylic jar white will cover anything. Don't use tube white, too thick. the jar white is the concistancy you want to paint with. And since you use 5x more white, use the jar white and transfer it to a squeeze bottle

Paint something small size, 5x7 or so, something you can get finished before the light changes.

Hi Billy,
Your red boat painting link said it doesn't exist.. Try it again.

You could have Deleated the first message, or Modified it.

Acrylic Polyurethane resin can be made hard or soft, the furniture industry makes a hard varnish that is water soluble, I've been using it on my acrylics as a final finish for twenty two years with perfect results, they are as clear as the day I put them on. Deft is one of several good brands you can get at any hardware store.

A good choice for acrylics, oil billboards or oil paintings without added wax is this coating by, Triangle Coating.
Clear Flex UV. Clear Satin or Gloss, non yellowing ultraviolet inhibiting, flexible, Water based, Acrylic Urethane coating. 1930 Fairway Drive, San Leandro, CA., 94577-5631
Here is his email.
gmolitor@tricoat.com

Don,
What do you use to protect finish your acrylic paintings? By means of protecting them.