Yikes, thanks Don.

Even as a veteran Webbie/Mackie, we make mistakes. Thanks for fixing. If ever I make an error I never take offense at a correction...makes for a good student

Huge info here. I hope you post this abroad to others, even in your oil painting section.

The only thing you left out of the "formula" above is how you apply the glue type as it is important to many folks. Perhaps you already posted...may be a good place to start a "Painters Library".

Also, please what type of masonite you use; do you cut your own or ask the store to do it...love the minimal rounded corners...great for fitting.

The "nubs" are a downer for everyone except those who need them.

Thanks for your reply.

Don,

How can I obtain a piece of the Temprapedic? We have a shop here that sells the mattresses. Do you think they would give me a sample if I explained my trade? That would be easier than asking you to send something. Just love this idea and will explore.

Bob, I have tried and used many surfaces for plein air painting using acrylics. Depending on where I am going this is my routine:

- Traveling overseas or with weight as an issue:
I do what is written in my article that follows. It is about precutting pre-primed canvas/linen then stretching when I get back...best use is for acrylics. I can take tons of materials with just a fews stretchers to hold while painting; then come home with a huge number of finished paintings/painted sketches:
http://www.ldianejohnson.com/articles/canvas/index.html
Roadshow

- Traveling in driving distance to home:
I use either pre-stretched linen, or, for longer trips by car, such as the one I'll take in two weeks to Florida: lightweight boxes from Artmate that carry 2 linen stretched canvas' or even better, four to eight boards. The boards I use range between Raymar panels (not recommended from me in large sizes, unless with thick 1/4in+ backing; but for up to 16x20 in are extremely lightweight for travel), or my own prepped masonite boards. I absolutely make my own boxes for 5x7 to 8x10 and sometimes 10x12.... as that may be an odd size to many it is a standard size for some, but no I know makes a box for this sized board.

Or, if traveling alone, I have made many simple boxes using strips of 1/4 in. balsa wood to make separators inside a box cut to size of my boards. Need to take a pic of these to really show you. Easy to do.

Even Handy Porter boxes work the same way:
Putnam Graphics

- Traveling in anywhere:
Since acrylics dry fast...and especially if they do not, you can do a simple thing between boards or canvas' using push pins. Just apply a pushpin on the outside-most corners of your wetter pieces and layer them. This works fine for oils as well.

So may ways, so many tips...these are just a few of mine among many.

Bob you asked about the make or manufacturer...I use Clausens pre-primed linen for stretched pieces for landscapes. I love the nubby surface when doing impressionistic or textured pieces. However, as a classical portratist, I also like to use the smoothest surface possible at times. That calls for anything you like best.

I sometimes sand, regesso, then sand again to gain a smooth surface for the most detailed of works. I am a "mutt" - which is a dog analogy. Don't know if you know what that means where you are, but here for painters, it means I paint according to what is needed for what I wish to paint. For instance. For a smooth portrait, I use smooth or create a smooth canvas. For rugged terrain, I may use a more rugged textured canvas.

Want to learn from you also. Appreciate you asking my opinion. Yet, you two and others reading are invited to respond and input their way of working.

Happy to be with you two guys here!

Diane

Hi Diane,
I cut the sponge out of a twin size Temprapedic mattress. If that's not an option I'll send you one of the 2x2x4 size I use.
djusko@realcolorwheel.com

Diane, I'd like you to meet a location painter friend of mine from Australia, Bob. Hi Bob.

The only additive I ever use is Liquitex Gloss Blending Medium, it's clear and water thin. It's good because like when I want a thin wash to be very strong. Strong enough so when I draw in the starting outlines with a long haired pointed sable I can wash off all the charcoal sketch lines without effecting my light colored outlines.

I have a new sponge and I love it. Dry it holds all dust just like a tack rag. Wet it holds more water without dripping then I have ever held before. I can wipe down a 22x30 with one dip. The sponge secret? It's made of the new bedding NASA Temprapedic close pore memory foam. I just cut off a 2" thick x3x4 piece and am lovin' it. Don't forget to wash down your acrylic each night before the next days work, if your like me you pick up a lot of dirt crawling all over the painting like I do.

Don

Hi Diane,

Personally I like my Liquitex acrylic paints and if it's not broke don't change it.

Golden's Open Acrylics sounds Ok to me even though it has been modified. Basically I don't trust changing the luster with any additive, it can only weaken the paint. What's slowing down the drying time? I don't trust it.

I know some beginners find slower drying handy but in time they will use the hair drier too.

The reason I use a final finish on each acrylic is I stack them and if they don't have a hard poly-urethane finish they will stick together. That goes for all acrylics I have found.