Thank you Don - I have downloaded and printed the wheel etc, and the blank for me to colour in myself . . . I do not have magenta - only a transparent red I think it is called brilliant red and is a real red)  - I guess I  can try that to begin with.

D. Red is half yellow. It should mix a terrible blue.
My transparent blue is ultramarine
D. Ult. blue is translucent. I will mix grays and darks with it's opposite color yellow, brown or red. You need cyan PB15. Read all the links on MyFreeLinks before you start painting.
The only transparent yellow I have is Aetelier Indian Yellow -
D. That may be good.
I have a semi-trans which is a med yellow (like cad yellow) which I use a lot because of its lovely clean hue.
D. Cad. Yellow is opaque, any color it's mixed with will look like a tint because it's a light opaque. PY153 and PY100 will tint to Cad yellow med.
It is the cleanness of your colours that really caught my eye - bright and clean. It is what I like to look at, so tend to use my colours raw as mixing them (so far) has tended to create mud! I am rearing to start on your colour mixing theory.
Again - Thanks, and have a wonder weekend (it is nearly 1pm here in NZ).
I have managed to track down a PB15.3, a PR122, but can only get a PY150
(I use acrylics) - all transparent. All ordered and should arrive within a week.
D. Who from and what brand?
Ordered from Art Supllies (NZ), and the brand for the magenta and cyan is Aetelier Interactive, and for the yellow it's Windsor and Newton.
D. Transparent Indian Yellow (PY150, PY153 and PY100 are the only yellows that are transparent, the rest are translucent or opaque.
D. I use PY150 for my acrylic and oil everyday painting on location.
Yay - the PY150 should be ok then
D. I use Tartrazine dry and make my own watercolor. PY153 is warmer, great for reds.
I am not quite ready yet to make my own colours from the raw pigment - it is the carrier that is the barrier for me at the moment . If I go back to oils, I might give it a go though. In the meantime, if I can find a supplier for good true colours to test out the colour wheel, I will be happy.
BTW - I tried to mix my own colour wheel today. LOL LOL LOL - yep - the blues are aweful ugly with that red I will have to wait for my magenta before I start to mix .
D. Thanks for adding the color to the post, I don't have that choice with webmail. Blue is the hardest color to make in a batch, especially in w/c.
D. Here is a 6 and 9 year old painting a 3 color RCWcolorwheel with w/c.
http://realcolorwheel.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?num=1371366707
Wow - isn't that pretty!
D. Let me know if you want to join.
Join? I am always keen to join anything which may lead to me learning something
The forum is just that, and we can contact within the forum with IM's
I'll sign you in tonight.
In the topics that you post in or want to follow check the "Notify of Replies" You will get an email. The IM's go straight to email. You can change any of your posts at any time. I'll take part of this post and start a thread.
D. Clean your brush often. Don't mess your primaries up with other colors.
Thanks - no I will keep my primaries just for mixing together - 1 - to make sure the colours stay true and 2 - to not waste them with colours that will not mix right.
Thanks again for everything. It is so wonderful to have someone who personally replies, rather than an automated answering thing.
D. When you want something done, ask the busiest person you know, they know how to schedule time.
This one is: (as copied from the chart)
653 Transparent Yellow 1 A I T Nickel Azo PY150 12764
D. Nickel Azo is transparent, nobody messes with the Pigment Number, PY150.
The second is the Pigment Index Number, it's accurate also, but not used as often.
PY100 isn't sold as a tubed pigment yet.