Painting on Location
by Donald A. Jusko

Don Jusko American Artist

colour cat

Clickable palette colors
Dioxine Purple Ultramarine Blue Cobalt Blue Thalo Cyan Blue Turquoise transparent Green Opaque Thalo Green
Burnt Umber Real Color Wheel in Pigments Permanent Green Light
Burnt Sienna
Venetian Red Yellow Green Opaque
Yellow Oxide
Naples Yellow Light Green Gold Transparent
Magenta Rembrandt Rose Cadmium Red Medium Cadmium Orange Indian Yellow Gold transparent Cadmium Yellow Medium Cadmium Yellow Pale

Making Colloidal Silver Colors
and Black Iron for Cast Iron Cookware

To Your Health 10-9-9

Real Color Wheel for Artists on Location, all elements including silver use this RCW.
All my painting use this same color wheel to darken all of natures shadow colors.

Colloidal Silver changes colors from yellow and red to brown, just like the Iron element and the RCW.
The iron element is used in cast iron cookware, it follows the RCW starting with a red rust color, brown, then black.
"When enough time has elapsed and you think the rust is gone, turn off the battery charger and remove the (negative) item from the solution. It will be coated with a POWDERY BLACK IRON (colloidal iron) that needs to be wiped and scrubbed away on normal tools." Use the black iron for a black cast iron oil polymerized finish.

You've heard that nothing happens by accident, I believe that is true. I also expect perfection, it happens all the time. Yesterday, 3-25-11, I was at a life drawing session and met the model Justine T. We were discussing and colloidal silver came up. Color and sound came up, today crop circles came up. She showed me the relationship of sound and geometric patterns with this web site url.
Cymatics: creating patterns with frequency
Sound was directed to a smooth plate with sand on it and different frequencies produced different patterns. I immediately saw the relationship between these patterns and crop circle patterns.

Sound emits, and light emits, reflective physical color does not emit. I think the colored ions in colloidal silver gain kinetic color energy in the color change. How that effects the human body I don't know but I have been drinking all the colors for months now, since 6-6-10. I just got my yearly blood test back from the VA, my cholesterol is normal, blood pressure is normal, Kidneys normal, everything is normal and much better than last year. I'm sure it was me taking CS internally that made the difference. *Recent studies in Hungary have discovered silver receptors on human cell tissue, which means that silver is in fact an essential element for health in humans.

I want to know how ions of silver are yellow to red scarlet and darken to brown when pure silver is the anode and cathode. Low, 3 volts makes yellow, the higher 7 volts is red and very high, 9 volts, makes brown. Yellow and red both go to brown on the RCW. The water always looks clear in the beginning and color appears after several days. Shade adds no additional change, direct sunlight turns the solution cloudy.

Silver's colors have never been explored past it's red crystal and black oxide because it's never been an issue. Back in A/D 593-646, The reigning emperor of Japan was killed and the Empress Suiko started their first art period, a high point is the black bronze "ya kushi" in the Golden Hall. Bronze had developed from the barest knowledge to adding silver to the mix, making a superior non-tarnishing, black bronze. It became the black armor of Europe.

"This is a good place to bring up the "black oxide" made with colloidal iron."
There are two ways to blacken your cast iron pan, with heated oil, polymerized (burnt) to a hard, slick finished. This method of darkening is not as permanent as fusing the black oxide with the heated polymerized oil. I am using the darkening oil without the black oxide on the burner on an electric stove. Here's what I have found. If the heat is too high for too long the oil burns off completely and you are back to a gray pan. If you don't use enough heat it's sticky (not burnt enough) or not sticky but only brown in color, use another run on the stove until it's black. A little smoke is ok. Parts will be black with some gray. Cool it and add more linseed or flax oil, re-cook it. Keep applying the oil and heating it with the same stove setting until it's black and shiny. You do the same steps on top of a colloidal black iron coating, I think, I haven't done it yet.

So, Silver..
The magenta/red PROUSTITE crystal, Ag3AsS3, H2, SG-5.6, trigonal, is SILVER and ARSENIC, Crimson color at it's best. The crystal tarnishes because of the silver content, idiochromatic, silver added the deep magenta to the red of arsenic in this crystal.
Crimson PYRARGYRITE, Ag3SbS3, H2.5, SG-5.85, ore of silver, trigonal. SILVER AND ANTIMONY, a deep warmer crimson than Proustite. Idiochromatic, deep crimson, dark in mass.

Colloidal silver's water is clear, yellow or crimson. Pure distilled water can become yellow to brown, orange to brown or red to brown. Clear that stays clear can be made by using a low voltage (three to five volts) through the pure silver electrode wires in 2 hours if you clean the wires every 10 minutes without fail. A very strong clear solution can be made in six hours.

I have been making colloidal silver for the last few months and I found by varying the length of time and voltage between two pure silver wire rods I can make it yellow or brown (by not cleaning the wires), magenta or brown (by straining it through four paper towels, or clear (by cleaning the wires every ten minutes). That's why I added this here. Silver makes yellow and red water with colloidal sized particles (the color will start to appear after three days).

The crystal color page includes silver's crystals.

The colloidal silver element is so small it can't be seen, the ion is part of the water and never settles. Like the colloidal particle of fat in milk. It is a minutely small positive colloidal ion particle.

Making Colored Colloidal Silver. I use a transformer and a circuit board regulator with a multi-voltage meter to read the voltage. High voltage for a short time makes cyan in 2-3 hours, it's clear and looks a little milky which gives it a blueish look. The strained water paper strainer will turn a blue-gray in a month (the blue man probably made his with a 12 volt car battery or two.
Today is 7/1/10. It is now 9:53 PM, Batch#42, Slider on the circuit board regulator= 1/3Left (full left = 4 volts), 2:20 hours, Strained, Clear, beam=5, two months later it is a Color=Magenta.09 (very light) crimson clear.

First medium voltage than reducing to a low voltage makes magenta in 7 hours which will darken considerably in 2 months.
Low voltage all the time makes a light yellow in 16 hours that will darken like PY100 or PY153 if you don't allow the wires to show any buildup. I think this is best.

A small touch of salt will turn colored water to clear water with a few large sparkles still small enough to stay suspended and not be seen. In two months it was completely settled and visible on the bottom. That settled water was clear at Beam=0 but it could be shaken to reach Beam=5. I think the salt combines the ions into larger masses that are not colloidal. The addition of salt happens in the small intestine I'm told. One year later the strained water was clear and had no ions present. Salt it bad, don't ever use it. I used spring water once and it had fall-out, straining the CS removed the impurities, it stayed pure, distilled water is pure water with never any impurities.

All of the colors below are about the same laser beam strength, all strong concentrations. I have some strong crimson-scarlet colors and learned how to make clear strong colloidal silver, but I'm not so sure that's what I want to use. Crimson-scarlet was made by using (7 volts) voltage for a short amount of time, two hours, then filtering it. Filtering seems to be the main reason for the crimson/scarlet color, more so than voltage time. I don't know why.

Colloidal Silver Colors

These white napkins were used to filter the colloidal silver. A yellow, magenta and cyan. The cyan color Bach#30 didn't show up until the 3rd day. This is how dark it was 30 days later. Batch#30 was the only batch made with above 7 volts, all the rest were made with 3 to 7 volts. The yellow napkin was used to strain 3 batches, that's why it's so dark.

Colloidal Silver Colors Dry

8-17-10, last month I made colloidal silver #43, at the lowest voltage possible in 2 hours 10 minutes, shine cleaning the wires every 10 minutes. It has an unstrained beam of 2.5. Strained is Beam 5 (the highest I can discern with a laser, after that it all looks the same). It stays clear.

I did more too total 2 hours 43 minutes. I had the same unstrained beam, 2.5, and the same Strained Beam 5. The beam 5 is in a one oz. sample jar, the main batch is unstrained. The main batch and smaller tests are all clear after a month stored in clear glass in normal home light. 45 days later the last two small jars have a very light pink cast, Magenta .05 is my best guess.

Today is 8/31/10. The main #43 jelly jar is still clear. The trick is to watch the glowing ions stream from the (+) anode wire towards the (-) cathode wire with a laser beam. Stop when it gets halfway to the other wire, clean the wires and shake it up (I blew bubbles in it). I've seen the negative wire absorb glowing positive ion streams from the sending wire, don't let that happen, it uses up the silver wires. For me, the wires are 3" apart and my lowest voltage will send a new ion stream across in 10 minutes. When the ion stream reaches the negative wire the buildup on the wires begins. Color will be added to the water, starting with a transparent yellow and ranging to a transparent brown, just like the Real Color Wheel. This color takes a month to fully appear.

#43 is still crystal clear. I haven't photographed them yet. I'm still not sure which is best, color or no color. I've been drinking (two tablespoons per day) color, mostly yellow because I make it slower. There is one test I haven't done yet; wires touching the glass jar bottom.

There isn't any contaminating of the clear water with the white corrosion build-up on my right (+) wire when I keep the low, 4 - 5 volts, for 20 hours straight.

Before I could get to that test I found a way to make it and keep it clear. Keep the wires clean, absolutely clean. Agitate the water at each 10 minute cleaning or just let it assimilate and distribute the silver streams for six hours or so. I just want to eliminate any trace of the path the ion particle stream had taken.
Unfiltered results will show a laser beam=2.5 (in a 0 to 5 scale) in a clear liquid, it will stay clear if the wires were always without any buildup on them. Strained through a paper napkin the same electrolyte liquid is now a beam=5. Beam #5 is as high as my eye scale goes. A high beam means the paper filtering of the original colloidal silver broke down to making millions of even smaller colloidal nano-particles that never sink either. A very dense laser beam full of reflecting colloidal silver particles that kill all one cell pathogens, bacteria and yeast mold, it can be absorbed through the skin or swallowed. Now that 2.5 unstrained batch can be brought up to a Beam=5 by continuing the current for 12 hours.

TIP: Now here I want to add an important side note. Batch#30, 7-15-10, was 2.5 hours of my medium voltage and 7 hours of low voltage. After 2 months it was the Color=Org3. (Photo, orange bottle stacked on top of "F" bottle which is a portion of Batch#30) My local Ace Hardware store's turpentine is my marker color as Color=Yellow1. One tablespoon of this filtered Beam=5 put into 16 oz of distilled water looked like an unfiltered Clear Beam=4 (photo "F"). What I'm saying is that there are ways to alter the results to be made in less time and look the same. I don't know how to test past that. By the time I made Batch#50 3-25-11 the beam 7-15-10 (Batch#30 diluted) had increased to Beam=5 on it's own and is clear water. This is the "blue" strained test.

I wonder if this should be in the Electrolyte category, it certainly adds to the positive physical action of healing. It would be nice if colloidal silver were in our drinking water rather than the poisonous fluoride.

Colloidal Silver Clear

"G" is clear and unfiltered. It will never turn a color.
Batch #43, 7-16-10

All the samples are from three months to 10 months old. "PF" is two capfuls of the strained beam=5, Orange4 sitting on it. It's almost clear and equals a beam=3, strained. Strong enough to build up your body silver count and immune system.
"H" Batch #42 is the same as #43 but cleaned at 15 minute intervals.
"A" Batch #38, 6-6-10
"B" Batch #9, 12-1-09
"C" Batch #37, 4-30-10
"E" Batch #40, 5-29-10
"F" Batch #30, 2 caps full of #30 that's sitting above it.
"G" Batch #43, 7-16-10, 10 minutes, cleaned wires.
"H" Batch #42, 15 minutes cleaned wires.
 "I" Batch #39,
"J" Batch #42, 6-1-10
"L" Batch #41,5-30-10
"M" Batch #27, 12-27-09 sm
"N" Batch #38, 6-6-10
"O" Batch #35, 3-7-10

Email me if you are into colloidal silver like I am. The next Batch#44 will also be clear but this step may be a breakthrough. Watching the water during the first 10 minute session I noticed a thin streak of charged ions going straight across to my receiving wire past the half way point, I turned it off and blew some bubbles to stir it up. I didn't see any streaks of ions forming again until the 20th ten minute session. No streaks in the 21st session, a high amount of what I call sparkles or pinpoints of light. Filtering the CS through 4 layers of napkin causes the laser beam to brighten and be more dense.
1-2-11, I noticed time also will brighten the laser beam. "F" Batch #30 is still clear but now is a Beam5, as high as I mark them. ("F" Batch #2capfulls of #30 which is above it)
Unfiltered, clean wire, colloidal silver has not turned color on me after two months in a clear bottle. 1-2-11 still clear after 5 months.
12-22-10, Batch #47, Today I'm making what I conceder possibly the best CS. I primed a quart of distilled water with 1/10 of batch #46. (I decided that wasn't necessary.)

I drink 2 table spoons a day. I use it to comb my hair too. I have the saved proof that my hair is returning to it's original color or at least getting darker. I have new black hairs in the front and my hair is stiffer and not falling out anymore. Three months ago my hair was much whiter. I'm 70, today it looks like 50. It cured my friends eye lid problem, ("it felt like sandpaper under my eyelids" she said).

It's turning the power off before the (+) sending wire turns darker or the stream of ions reaches the receiving wire. After one minute at 5 volts will cause a stream of ions and the silver wires are still clean. Maybe a shield just in front of the receiving wire reaching almost to the sides of the container would force the stream to take a longer path to the receiving wire. Or rotating the jar.

UPDATED 3-18-11 I'm still taking 2 tablespoons of CS per day, 8 months now. I noticed one cold day my throat was feeling "itchy" a sign of a coming sore throat. One quick spray and my throat felt normal. My hair is still getting darker and I notice all my hair is getting thicker and darker. A down side may be that it is growing faster also, I can live with that. I'm very healthy now compared to my documented last blood test a year ago. 2-28-15, I felt that "tickle" in my throat again, one spray of CS stopped it.

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